Alexander McQueen’s powerful & delicate warriors at PFW A/W ’19

Paris is living golden, emotional days during its Fashion Week. And, yes, it’s time to talk again about emotion, by mentioning Alexander McQueen.

The beloved British fashion designer, who passed away in 2010, founded the brand in 1992, and his legacy was successfully kept alive and vibrant by his longtime collaborator Sarah Burton. The Creative Director remained faithful to his visual narration, playing with femininity codes, contrasting elements, traditional and revisited tailoring romantically sharp metamorphosis.

Just a few days before the fashion show, the label released an intriguing video by Masha Vasyukova, where mechanical sounds, fabric threads powerfully interweaving and a feminine fierce look, created that kind of suspense and aura around the Autumn/Winter 2019 womenswear collection to be presented.

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The show in Paris took place at Lycée Carnot, the same location where Lee McQueen staged his Hitchcock-inspired fashion show in 2005, and Sarah Burton paid homage to her DNA: the Northern British county of Derbyshire, the Red Rose of Lancaster symbol of the heraldic emblem of England, and the British fabric mills. A love declaration to Made in England. Luxury rolls of William Halstead, John Foster, Bower Roebuck, Savile Clifford, Joshua Ellis fabrics and wools of British textile heritage, represented the set design for the show because they design the fundamental material for bespoke tailoring. 

As Sarah Burton stated “Lee started on Savile Row and McQueen is always about tailoring for me. The jacket is at the heart of what we do. Tailoring is about strength, but it’s also about being held.” 

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Our Rebel Femme team was impressed and moved by the incredible play of hard and soft, strong and delicate, aggressive and fragile, two inseparable aspects that belong to the McQueen powerful woman, and that can address to every female creature. 

Visions of beauty, punk and amazing craftsmanship designed contemporary elongated and voluminous silhouettes, brought to life by magnificent wools, leathers, silk taffetas, chiffons, laces, mixed with ruffles, layers, asymmetry, (de)construction, draping experimentation, modern tailoring, abstract and floral prints, 3D intricated draped roses.

Statement gowns, super sexy corsets, tailored jackets, impeccable pants, embroidered dresses, and ankle-length coats were enriched with armor references: metal hardware such as elements of loom industrial machines, zippers, buttons, double chains crossing the upper body, plus metal chains, jewelry and chokers, rows of earrings, bracelets, double-wrapped belts, and the leather combat boots to complete the looks.

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The chromatic palette was as strong as the collection, displaying red, black, white, grey, hues of blue, and hints of magenta, reinforcing the sensation of harmonic contrasts through colour blocks and juxtapositions.

McQueen’s typical sense of gothic + punk, raw romanticism, and energy were fully displayed and we were moved, we really felt the emotion, from the beginning to the end of the show, whose finale was performed by the exquisite Red Rose of Lancaster draped dress, in full bloom, like every passionate woman on earth. To remember our roots and the chance to unfold our explosive beauty.

Photo provided by: NOWFASHION






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